I arrived in Varkala on the 21st and ended up staying 6 days. To my disappointment the weather was really really crappy – but Varkarla was cool… so it nearly made up for it!
On arrival in Varkarla I met a cool ozzie woman Shaz who recommended I stay at the Thriuvathira Beach Resort. Wow, what a good hint… for 300 rupees I had a balcony, hot water AND a window… the guys running the place were pretty cool too, very helpful.
Varkarla has a much better vibe than Kovalam. There is a huge cliff top where all the shops, restaurants and guesthouses are, then below there is the beach… There are heaps of westerners on the main beach sunning themselves in bikinis/togs and the occasional group of local/tourist men going for walks (clearly to have a perve at the western girls). It bothered me for about 2 mins but then I got over it and thought it was rather amusing – I guess I felt safe due to the number of people on the beach.
In amongst the greyness I managed to find a couple of days when the weather wasn’t too bad for some beach time. Most of the time in Varkarla I spend the days wandering around, browsing in shops, sitting in cafes reading my book, listening to live bands at the pub and eating wonderful seafood. Oh the seafood was SOOO good… fresh from the sea and a nice change to the vegetarian curries I have been eating over the last couple of months.